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Maintaining with the Kardashians BRUNETTE SHITTING GALLERY Is Ending. But Their Exploitation of Black Women’s Aesthetics Continues

- Cady Lang @cadylang

'It’s no secret that they’ve adopted many kinds that Black girls have created and made them extra palatable'

The inaugural episode of Maintaining with the Kardashians, which debuted on E! in 2007, begins with an irreverent home scene. Kim Kardashian, the undisputed protagonist of the present, rummages via the fridge as she’s teased by her family for the size of her posterior.

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“I think she’s bought slightly junk in her trunk,” says Kris Jenner, the family’s matriarch and “momager.” She calls her daughter’s butt “jiggly,” as Kim’s sister Khloé Kardashian chimes in from the kitchen table, “Kim’s always had an ass.”

That the opener of the watershed actuality present-which ends June 10 after 20 seasons-centered on the family’s fixation on Kim’s rear foreshadowed the now-ubiquitous public obsession together with her physique, and significantly that particular feature of it. This outsize fascination was perhaps best embodied by her controversial 2014 Paper magazine cover, shot by Jean-Paul Goude, the place her bare bottom is flanked by the line, “Break the Internet Kim Kardashian.” On social media and in numerous think pieces, the cover drew comparisons to Saartjie Baartman, the 19th-century South African woman known as the “Hottentot Venus.”

In this problematic comparison lie the troubling roots of the obsession with the Kardashian aesthetic. Baartman was paraded semi-nude, her posterior exhibited as a curio of sorts for European audiences that would, for a worth, touch her body-a sobering image of the exploitation and degradation that Black ladies and their our bodies have suffered for centuries. By distinction, Kim has explicitly benefitted from her a lot-talked-about determine, tapping into an viewers that sees her as no strange white lady, however as an alternative as an exotic and attention-grabbing one.

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Learn Extra: Kim Kardashian’s Nude Pictures and Saartjie’s Choice: History’s Downside with Fascinating Our bodies

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It’s a vicious culture that valorizes curves on wealthy, racially ambiguous white girls, but stigmatizes these traits on Black women; one that plays into a longtime fascination with the aesthetics of Blackness and an unwillingness to engage with the ugliness of anti-Black racism at the identical time. And it’s within the Kardashian-Jenner sisters’ wholehearted embrace of this tension that their household has forever changed the methods society thinks about our bodies and sweetness, forging the standards that have defined the past decade.

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Between their loyal viewership on television and massive social media presences (Kim was the most adopted individual on Instagram in 2015 and at the moment has the sixth largest account with 227 million followers), the family blazed a trail for a new model of celebrity: the influencer. Even after Maintaining with the Kardashians ends and the household strikes on to their new deal to create content material for Disney and Hulu, this legacy will remain. The Kardashian-Jenner look is ubiquitous: Heavily contoured makeup, dramatically curvy our bodies and plumped lips have had cyclical moments of popularity, but they owe much of their mainstream favor lately to the huge affect of the sisters.

The ‘exotic’ white girl and cultural appropriation

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While the allure of the “exotic” white woman is as old because the longtime debates about Cleopatra’s racial background, Kim has pioneered the branding of it as an identification, leveraging it for the creation of a trend and sweetness empire, leaning into the allure of her fame and countless resources to form a brand. A 2018 study by the American Society for Plastic Surgeons discovered that butt-enhancing procedures had elevated by 256% since 2000. From sporting Fulani braids, which have roots in West Africa, and attributing the fashion to Bo Derek, another white woman, to the a number of occasions she’s been referred to as out for carrying Blackface by carrying skin-darkening makeup, Kim isn't any stranger to creating deliberate magnificence and magnificence selections that depend on racial efficiency-then turning round and discovering methods to capitalize on it. (Kim has staunchly denied doing Blackface-after she was accused of sporting Blackface for a 2017 KKW Magnificence marketing campaign, she instructed the brand new York Occasions that she “would clearly by no means wish to offend anybody,” and later changed the images.) Despite a cultural appropriation scandal forward of its launch, her shapewear line SKIMS has discovered a powerful base of consumers who put their trust in Kim and her hourglass shape to ship a product that can assist their own curves-or the curves that they get surgically to emulate her.

Her sisters have all followed suit, most notably her youngest sibling, Kylie Jenner, whose dramatic beauty and physique evolution in current seasons peaked with a year-long denial of getting lip fillers earlier than she copped to having them in a confessional on the show. (In 2019, she sold a majority stake of the company to make-up big Coty for $600 million.) She then parlayed the controversy into selling her Kylie Lip Kits, a venture that was Kylie Cosmetics, a multimillion-greenback cosmetics enterprise. At a beauty surgical procedure clinic within the U.Okay., inquiries into lip augmentation jumped 70% in 24 hours after the episode aired, whereas the American Society for Plastic Surgeons reported a double-digit increase in lip procedures performed in 2016, the yr after Jenner mentioned she bought filler.

The implications of Blackfishing

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Perhaps it ought to come as no shock that the term Blackfishing (a portmanteau of Black and catfishing that describes a step beyond cultural appropriation, when people alter their appearance with makeup, cosmetic surgery, filters or digital modifying to seem Black) originated on social media in 2018, effectively into the reign of the Kardashian-Jenners’ popularity. Wanna Thompson, the journalist who coined the time period whereas elaborating on the phenomenon in a viral Twitter thread of “white ladies cosplaying as Black women” that featured endless Kardashian-Jenner simulacrum, says that the sisters, who've been criticized for acts like claiming that they “started wigs” to sporting grills, have played a significant role in normalizing or even popularizing Blackfishing with pictures of themselves projecting racial ambiguity.

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“They’ve been called out for cultural appropriation for a decade plus now, and it’s no secret that they’ve adopted many types that Black ladies or Black culture have created and made them more palatable,” Wanna Thompson says, recollecting when Kim wore cornrows and wonder writers dubbed them “boxer braids,” rebranding the longtime protecting fashion worn by Black women as a pattern inspired by boxers. “Now people suppose they’re copying the Kardashian-Jenners once they gown or do their hair or tan their pores and skin a sure manner.”

The white mainstream popularization of Black fashion or options by the use of Blackfishing, much of which has been perpetuated by the Kardashians and Jenners, presents a sobering paradox: while it reveals that beauty and body requirements are shifting as they’ve all the time achieved, this alteration comes by way of white ladies, ultimately to the detriment of Black ladies. The form a person is born with is nothing to guage, however Kim and other white ladies with curves like hers aren’t subjected to the centuries-lengthy objectification, hypersexualization and disdain that Black women have confronted for his or her our bodies. On this, the Kardashian-Jenner sisters’ affect is tip-to-toe: while Black women like Florence “Flo-Jo” Griffith-Joyner were subject to racist and classist stereotypes for sporting elaborate nail artwork and acrylics-lengthy markers of Black women’s fashion and self-expression-Kylie was hailed for launching an revolutionary development when she began exhibiting off her nail artwork on social media.

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“It makes beauty requirements adhere to whiteness even more closely,” says Ayanna Thompson, the writer of Blackface. ” What’s probably the most fascinating factor: a lovely white woman who can look lovely even when she’s trying to look Black? “Because it’s like, ‘She’s so stunning, as a result of she’s white, even when she puts on the Blackface.’ It leaves Black ladies at the lowest rung of desirability.

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Some have suggested that the sisters have strategically tried to distance themselves from accusations of appropriation and Blackfishing by their personal relationships and even advocacy work. As Allison P. Davis wrote in Vulture when Kim and Kanye West’s marriage ended, the Kardashian sisters’ “relationships with Black males, and the multiracial kids that they had with them, seemed to supply some form of cultural cowl for his or her appropriation.”

Performance and revenue

It’s the performative but relatively ephemeral area of social media, the place a controversial photo might be quickly posted then deleted, that Ayanna Thompson argues has offered an environment especially ripe for the Kardashian-Jenner sisters-with their mixed social media viewers of 771 million followers-to experiment with racial performance by means of Blackfishing, which Ayanna Thompson sees as following within the racist tradition of Blackface minstrelsy.

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While she’s fast to level out that the appropriation and performance of Blackness is nothing new, she explains that what's new are the strategies of broadcasting and marketing it-something that the Kardashian-Jenners have finished exceptionally well and to an immense profit.

In September 2020, the identical month the Kardashian-Jenners announced that the collection was ending, Forbes estimated the family’s collective wealth at $2 billion; at the time, Forbes additionally estimated that Kim made solely 20% of her yearly income that 12 months from showing on the present. The influence and incomes potential of the Kardashian-Jenners is poised for a robust future regardless of their television work, because of their a number of brands, savvy social media use and effectively-established cultural presence.

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Ayanna Thompson points to their white privilege, which allows them to adopt Black aesthetics with out having to reside the Black expertise, as a driving power behind their contributions to a brand new magnificence very best for the mainstream. That I can like these things, which we may want to denigrate, but I don’t have to stay there. “That’s the ultimate power of whiteness, right? “There’s a cause why they’ve carried out this and why they have made money on this,” she says.